MS Nordstjernen – charming Vestland classic on a new cruise course

This ship breathes history at every turn. A history that is worth preserving. And that is exactly what Norwegian Vestland Classic shipowner Jarle is doing with his 28-strong ship’s crew. At 69 years of age, no ship is really young anymore, and MS Nordstjernen is now even a listed heritage ship.

Before the classic liner celebrates its 70th (!) anniversary in 2026, the 2,200-tonne ship, built in Hamburg, has undergone extensive renovation and refurbishment. With great attention to detail and a multi-million investment, everything visible and invisible has been continuously maintained and cared for in recent years – at least what could be done in accordance with heritage protection regulations. And so I can no longer find any rust on board – MS Nordstjernen shines brightly, freshly painted in vibrant colours, right down to the last corner.

The same applies to the decks: it is a pleasure to look at the wood-planked outdoor areas and an even greater pleasure to walk on them! Such originality is practically impossible to find on any ship at sea today. It is therefore clear that guests are happy to obey the rules in order to protect the high-quality wood and leave the deck chairs where they are – damage is thus virtually impossible, and MS Nordstjernen is grateful.

The interior of the ship looks just as good: corroded window frames from the Hurtigruten era have disappeared and the ageing window frames have been replaced with fresh wood. Nevertheless, the interior design from the Hurtigruten era is extremely recognisable.

I am impressed by the overall picture. Speaking of wood, I couldn’t find a single place on board where wood wasn’t used in some way – there are even wooden slats in our shower corner in the bathroom. This would be impossible on modern ships. Once again, the MS Nordstjernen is a living piece of history. In addition, the viewer’s eyes are delighted by real plants on all dining tables and in the saloon. Vestland Classic demonstrates its attention to detail here too – hats off!

The cabins – a journey into the past

The cabins are – without question – also witnesses to their time. They do not have much in common with today’s standards. You should be aware of this before travelling, and with the right mindset, you will have no reason to complain.

It is important to mention at this point that it is advisable for every guest to bring a minimum amount of luggage on board, as the cabins are not very large overall. You won’t be unpacking your suitcase during the trip anyway – there is far too little storage space in the cabin and bathroom (if you have your own bathroom at all). If you find yourself in a cabin with a porthole or a window, you are one of the privileged few in modern times: the portholes can still be opened by guests, providing just the right amount of fresh air. However, if you are looking for hot air to dry your hair in the bathroom, you will have to ask at reception to borrow a hairdryer, as the cabins do not have them as standard. As everywhere else on board, it is advisable to behave properly and keep your cabin tidy: the daily cabin service that is standard on cruise ships today is only provided on board the Nordstjernen upon explicit request. In addition, this service is limited solely to cleaning the bathroom; making the beds and tidying up is the responsibility of the guest.

The cruise ship tour – MS Nordstjernen on five decks

In the mid-1950s, time was of the utmost importance: following the Second World War, the Norwegian postal shipping line urgently required new vessels. It was very convenient for the Norwegians that they still had the construction plans for the predecessor steamship Nordstjernen at their disposal and now only had to find a shipyard that could build the new ship slightly larger and more modern, but essentially based on the existing construction plans. They finally found what they were looking for at Blohm und Voss in Hamburg/Germany. The shipbuilders from the Elbe received their first order after the war and even had sufficient steel in stock from wartime. This was fortunate for the Nordstjernen, as the hull was now 18 mm thick, about twice as strong as is usual for civilian ships. Perhaps this ‘initial mistake’ was the reason why the smart liner has been able to resist every storm so successfully to this day and has mastered its many years of service with flying colours.

Is there a show lounge, pool area, pizzeria or climbing facility on the funnel on board? No, of course not! There are no such modern amenities on board the „Stjerna“. Instead, you are very close to the sea everywhere. Sometimes even particularly close, when the classic ship without stabilisers tilts a little more to one side in wind and waves.

As on any ocean-going vessel, the golden rule applies here too: ‘One hand for yourself, one hand for the ship’. But it’s not just the numerous outdoor deck areas that offer a full entertainment programme:

there’s also the open bridge, which is open to visitors almost all the time. Captain Odd and his officers are happy to answer questions or chat about their behind-the-scenes experiences.

And if you want to know exactly how it works, take a guided tour with Chief Engineer Tito in his empire, the engine room. Without having to think twice, he can answer any questions and provide all interested visitors with figures:
70,000 litres of tank capacity, filled with comparatively environmentally friendly ‘MGO’ (marine gas oil); fuel consumption of around 230 litres per hour during the voyage; a four-bladed propeller with adjustable blades that rotates at 135 revolutions per minute; a 40-metre-long ship’s shaft that is manually lubricated several times a day and powered by an 8-cylinder engine (built in 1985) – and much, much more.

And there is plenty more to discover on the five decks: the sun deck offers a number of seating options and access to the bridge. Most of the action on board takes place on the saloon deck below: at the front is the spacious lounge, which feels like it has been taken straight out of a vintage 1950s living room – fittingly, there is no television, which is such a common sight nowadays.

The former on-board café amidships is now also used as a restaurant, providing 110 seats for all cruise guests during a single meal service. As everywhere else on board, the buffet area and restaurant walls are adorned with numerous artistic creations by Paul Gaugin’s nephew, giving the public areas their own unique and very attractive style. The ship’s bar aft is not large, but cosy and a constant source of cool drinks and good conversation among guests. Right next to the bar is the 24/7 tea and coffee station, as well as the mini library on board.

Behind the stern lounge is one of my two favourite features on board: the aft sun deck. Not only is the high-gloss wooden parquet flooring a real eye-catcher, but so is the steering wheel, which is magnificently displayed in front of the oversized Norwegian flag. Captain Odd confirms on request that the steering wheel is even ready for use in an emergency, making the Nordstjernen unique once again.

The C deck below resembles a promenade deck, as it offers a wonderful opportunity to walk almost completely around the old-timer cruiser. In addition to the most spacious cabins on the ship, the reception and the on-board hospital are located here. The latter, however, does not have a doctor on board.

Insider tip: If you continue along the outside of the C deck towards the bow, turn a few corners and climb a staircase, you will come to my personal number one highlight on board – the foreship and bow area. In the past, cargo was loaded and unloaded here, but today the Zodiacs for shore excursions are stored here. But that’s not all: this area is generally open to all guests – even when the Zodiacs are being loaded and unloaded by crane, and during docking and undocking. Of course you should not stand around and block some space out of curiosity, nor put yourself or the crew in danger. Sticking your nose over the bow as it cuts through the sometimes rough seas while sailing on the high seas gives you a unique feeling! Almost no cruise ship today can offer such a close-to-the-sea experience – which makes it all the more wonderful to be able to experience it here.

The lowest decks, ‘B’ and “A”, are classic cabin decks. Here, almost no two cabins are alike. At the time, each cabin was individually built into every space and around every corner. While on modern new ships it can almost always be said that “once you’ve seen one cabin in a category, you’ve seen them all”, this is certainly not the case on board the Nordstjernen. The sizes vary, as do the furnishings and floor plans. For the 28 cabins at the stern without their own shower and toilet, there are additional sanitary facilities on the two decks. In addition, it should be noted that the cabins at the stern are prone to noticeable vibrations – courtesy of the ship’s propeller.

Furthermore, individualists will be delighted, but those who enjoy cosiness may be disappointed: there are no double beds on board; guests sleep in single beds or bunk beds. Those who rest in the latter should be ‘ladder-proof’ in order to climb the steep stairs. This, too, is a living relic from days long past. And that is precisely what makes so much on board so endearing.

SHIPS@SEA Resumée

This ‘charm’ is what makes MS Nordstjernen so special. But this applies not only to the ship itself, but equally to its lovely crew. From the captain to the waiters, everyone is extremely friendly and clearly committed to looking after the guests. This is particularly embodied by tour guide Ruth Moritz: she is on her feet from early in the morning until late at night, organising the daily schedule, giving informative lectures and pointing out interesting flora and fauna along the route. All this is coupled with genuine enthusiasm, which the guests sense and which they themselves feel by the second day of the trip at the latest.

Is it any wonder that at the end of the journey everyone embraces each other in farewell and is reluctant to disembark? Not for me, at least, because this travel experience from Vestland Classic is so unique, touching and inspiring. It’s a wonderful feeling that is hard to find on the high seas these days. And so one thing is clear to me: MS Nordstjernen is in such good shape that it can continue to cruise the high seas for many, many years to come, and the ship and shipping company have successfully made me want to say ‘goodbye’ with all my heart. Because I definitely want to see and experience all of this again. With this in mind:

„Ahoi Stjerna“ and see you soon!

Fancy more about MS Nordstjernen?

Then we will invite you shortly to set sail with our STORY@SEA from Norway to the Orkney and Shetland Islands with MS Nordstjernen.

Or visit our extensive gallery of photos of ‘Stjerna’ here.

You can find the extensive anniversary cruise programme offered by Vestland Classic here.

Furthermore, those who book a cruise with Vestland Classic are not required to make a deposit or pay in full before departure. Vestland Classic expressly allows its guests to pay on board on the day of departure, either in cash or by card. This is an unusual and confidence-building business policy these days – another factor that makes the shipping company and its fleet so distinctive and unique.

Advertisement: SHIPS@SEA travelled at the invitation of Vestland Classic and with the excellent support of the lovely Nordstjernen crew.

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